Saturday, September 7, 2013

Hawthorn, the first

Sometimes bandwagons are a good thing.  If you haven't heard about Colette patterns Hawthorn, then do you live under a rock or something? consider yourself informed.  I kind of hate how sewing blogs tend to be trendy in the sense that, when a new pattern comes out, pretty much everyone makes it right off.  At the same time, if it's a design like this, who can blame them?  This pattern can be made up either as a top with a peplum or a full skirted dress, sleeveless, short sleeves, or long(ish) sleeves.  This is my first version and obviously I opted for the short sleeved peplum top.

I didn't make any changes to the pattern so this is how it fit straight out of the envelope.  I made a FBA for my second two versions but they have some underbust sagging (somehow I must have added some room there?) so I may have to just retrace the original piece and stick with it.  It pulls a bit across the bust, but otherwise is a great fit.

From behind.  I think I prefer the peplum on the back to the front, so I'm thinking about trying to modify the front pieces to be less full with the full peplum in the back.  I was actually completely opposed to peplums up until this pattern came out... now I just feel like a jerk.  Peplums are awesome.  End of story.

This top really wants a straight or tapered silhouette on the bottom.  Unfortunately I'm pretty well lacking in those.  Don't worry, I'm working to rectify that.  It feels like I'm trying to build a whole new wardrobe around this top, though, which might be a bad sign.  Will I still love this style next year when peplums are a thing of the distant past?  Only time will tell.  Fortunately there's still the dress view, and shirt dresses are always in style (I'm sure I read that somewhere... I would never make up such a crucial rule of fashion, but then again these things have to start somewhere).

Now for the bad.  Nothing related to the pattern, just my incompetence.  First of all, how do you sew on a hook and eye?  I feel like this needs research.  It seems so obvious, and yet... well, you can see for yourself.  Then I wanted to use some of the many thrifted hem laces I have lying around.  Unfortunately I could not find most of them.  I thought I had enough of the green, but obviously I was wrong.  I'm not too worried about it, though, since it's on the inside.  It'll have to be my secret shame whenever I wear this shirt (so broken up about this,can't you tell?)

A better shot of the cacophony going on inside this blouse.  The bias tape (also thrifted) almost matches the fabric (also thrifted) but I think the hem lace pretty much kills any hopes I'd had for "haute couture" seam finishing on this make.  I would've ripped off the green lace and opted for regular bias tape, but this fabric unravels at an alarming rate.  I wouldn't want to pick any stitches out without a stiff drink first!

When I first saw the pattern I hated the collar.  I wasn't even going to buy it just because, look!  It's so tiny!  But I've come around now.  It's not disproportionately small; it's delicate.  It was a bear to get it to lay down, though.  I have to iron it down pretty much every time I put it on.  Le sigh.  I do hate ironing.  I didn't hand stitch down the facing so the morning I took these pics I just stitched a couple of bar tacks (out of whatever random thread that was in my machine, by the way) to tack it down at the shoulders where it's wont to meander.

The collar hides them when it's down, though, so not too bad.  From the outside I'll go so far as to say It looks pretty damn good.  I like it anyway.  I just need a few new skirts to go with.  The fabric is a really soft, slightly textured blue blend of some sort.  I think it's probably cotton and rayon "linen look."  It definitely has that linen look to it but doesn't wrinkle too horribly.  For all I know it could be linen/cotton.  It doesn't really press as well as 100% cotton, though, nor does it smell like polyester under a hot iron (or melt!) so I'm sticking with the cotton/rayon theory.  You can't really tell in these pictures but the buttons are semi-matching white buttons from the big bag o' buttons I picked up at Goodwill a year or so ago.  I'm getting down to mostly mismatched buttons, so expect to see a lot more of that happening.

If I look haggard in these pictures it's because I absolutely am.  On the bright side, this is what I looked like at 6pm so yay for non-wrinkly outfits!  

The skirt is a refashion that doesn't really deserve much said about it.  It was a button up maxi skirt that I cut the bottom off of.  The top part I cut up and pieced together to make the ties and the hem and front plackets stayed the same.  It's all right.  It's a wrap skirt.  Not the sexiest thing I own, but very comfy.  That's about all there is to be said for it.

Oh yes, and it's twirly.  And definitely not windy day approved.

Total cost: about $3 (the fabric was $2.50 and everything else probably doesn't really amount to .50 but whatever)
Make again: done and done with more versions planned
Sustainability: Totally reloved.  All materials were thrifted, pattern was purchased from a small local store.  Plus we're only a few hours from Portland so I'll call it practically local as well.
Final thoughts: This is kind of a basic pattern with a vintage feel and great details.  This is my first Colette pattern and I love it.

What do you guys think?  Do you love or hate the Hawthorn pattern?  Made or making any yourself?

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