Hawthorn, the first

Sometimes bandwagons are a good thing.  If you haven't heard about Colette patterns Hawthorn, then do you live under a rock or something? consider yourself informed.  I kind of hate how sewing blogs tend to be trendy in the sense that, when a new pattern comes out, pretty much everyone makes it right off.  At the same time, if it's a design like this, who can blame them?  This pattern can be made up either as a top with a peplum or a full skirted dress, sleeveless, short sleeves, or long(ish) sleeves.  This is my first version and obviously I opted for the short sleeved peplum top.

I didn't make any changes to the pattern so this is how it fit straight out of the envelope.  I made a FBA for my second two versions but they have some underbust sagging (somehow I must have added some room there?) so I may have to just retrace the original piece and stick with it.  It pulls a bit across the bust, but otherwise is a great fit.

From behind.  I think I prefer the peplum on the back to the front, so I'm thinking about trying to modify the front pieces to be less full with the full peplum in the back.  I was actually completely opposed to peplums up until this pattern came out... now I just feel like a jerk.  Peplums are awesome.  End of story.

This top really wants a straight or tapered silhouette on the bottom.  Unfortunately I'm pretty well lacking in those.  Don't worry, I'm working to rectify that.  It feels like I'm trying to build a whole new wardrobe around this top, though, which might be a bad sign.  Will I still love this style next year when peplums are a thing of the distant past?  Only time will tell.  Fortunately there's still the dress view, and shirt dresses are always in style (I'm sure I read that somewhere... I would never make up such a crucial rule of fashion, but then again these things have to start somewhere).

Now for the bad.  Nothing related to the pattern, just my incompetence.  First of all, how do you sew on a hook and eye?  I feel like this needs research.  It seems so obvious, and yet... well, you can see for yourself.  Then I wanted to use some of the many thrifted hem laces I have lying around.  Unfortunately I could not find most of them.  I thought I had enough of the green, but obviously I was wrong.  I'm not too worried about it, though, since it's on the inside.  It'll have to be my secret shame whenever I wear this shirt (so broken up about this,can't you tell?)

A better shot of the cacophony going on inside this blouse.  The bias tape (also thrifted) almost matches the fabric (also thrifted) but I think the hem lace pretty much kills any hopes I'd had for "haute couture" seam finishing on this make.  I would've ripped off the green lace and opted for regular bias tape, but this fabric unravels at an alarming rate.  I wouldn't want to pick any stitches out without a stiff drink first!

When I first saw the pattern I hated the collar.  I wasn't even going to buy it just because, look!  It's so tiny!  But I've come around now.  It's not disproportionately small; it's delicate.  It was a bear to get it to lay down, though.  I have to iron it down pretty much every time I put it on.  Le sigh.  I do hate ironing.  I didn't hand stitch down the facing so the morning I took these pics I just stitched a couple of bar tacks (out of whatever random thread that was in my machine, by the way) to tack it down at the shoulders where it's wont to meander.

The collar hides them when it's down, though, so not too bad.  From the outside I'll go so far as to say It looks pretty damn good.  I like it anyway.  I just need a few new skirts to go with.  The fabric is a really soft, slightly textured blue blend of some sort.  I think it's probably cotton and rayon "linen look."  It definitely has that linen look to it but doesn't wrinkle too horribly.  For all I know it could be linen/cotton.  It doesn't really press as well as 100% cotton, though, nor does it smell like polyester under a hot iron (or melt!) so I'm sticking with the cotton/rayon theory.  You can't really tell in these pictures but the buttons are semi-matching white buttons from the big bag o' buttons I picked up at Goodwill a year or so ago.  I'm getting down to mostly mismatched buttons, so expect to see a lot more of that happening.

If I look haggard in these pictures it's because I absolutely am.  On the bright side, this is what I looked like at 6pm so yay for non-wrinkly outfits!  

The skirt is a refashion that doesn't really deserve much said about it.  It was a button up maxi skirt that I cut the bottom off of.  The top part I cut up and pieced together to make the ties and the hem and front plackets stayed the same.  It's all right.  It's a wrap skirt.  Not the sexiest thing I own, but very comfy.  That's about all there is to be said for it.

Oh yes, and it's twirly.  And definitely not windy day approved.

Total cost: about $3 (the fabric was $2.50 and everything else probably doesn't really amount to .50 but whatever)

Make again: done and done with more versions planned

Sustainability: Totally reloved.  All materials were thrifted, pattern was purchased from a small local store.  Plus we're only a few hours from Portland so I'll call it practically local as well.

Final thoughts: This is kind of a basic pattern with a vintage feel and great details.  This is my first Colette pattern and I love it.

What do you guys think?  Do you love or hate the Hawthorn pattern?  Made or making any yourself?

thrifty thursdays

sorry for the crappy night photos... but i just had to share.

the thrifing gods were smiling upon me.  in addition to some great fabric i found a set of brand new size 5 addi turbos: originally $14.95 (in case you can't read that)

that's right: $1.99  

win!

thrifty tip: if a piece of clothing has seen better days and is destined for the scrap bin, pull anything usable off before tossing it.  are there buttons?  a pants hook and eye?  a non-broken zipper?  an embellishment that you can re-use on a new item?  you'd be surprised just how much can be salvaged even when the fabric is beyond saving.  (most of you probably already do this if you sew, but in case you don't, there's your thrifty tip of the week)

WIP Wednesday: whatever happened to knitting?

i've been in a terrible knitting and blogging incaseyoudidn'tnotice rut recently.  there are some reasons, or excuses if you will, for both of these egregious oversights.

let's cover knitting real quick as i think it'll be more entertaining.  after all who doesn't like to gloat over hear about others' failures?  i know i do.

first there was the ill fated black recycled lace sweater.  there was so much wrong there it's actually hard to know where to start.  first, i did not make a game plan.  i had some notes on gauge and how many stitches to cast on, which would have been enough, but i lost them.  into the ether apparently cuz they never turned up.  then i started seriously doubting  whether or not it would even be a flattering style for me and i didn't think there'd be enough yarn.  and then came the kettle corn.  my god... the kettle corn.  i don't think i'll ever get all the kettle corn out of the knitting, much less the yarn cake.  fail.

then there were the socks.  ships that passed in the night, as it were.  halfway through the second sock i started looking for the mate (cuz, you know, socks get lonely without their sole mates... and yes you can expect to hear that pun many more times on this blog).  gone.  undoubtedly absconded with the sweater notes.  (sensing a theme here?  i really need to get organized =P)  double fail.  that pretty much killed my willtolive knitting mojo for awhile.  now that the weather is turning and fall is decidedly creeping up my thoughts have turned to woolly sweaters so i've finally cast on a new knitting project.

finally, my swift is and has been broken for.ev.er.  my dad made it and insists he will fix it... but i may have to go buy a new one.  when all your yarn is in hanks it becomes a paramount task (not to mention team effort) to cast on a new project.  damn the evil spider that broke my swift.

as for the blog i can only blame myself (blaming the kids would be too easy) for my broken camera, sticky laptop keys (note the lack of capital letters and spaces... now you know why), and sporadic internet connection.  so the last one isn't really kid-related but it definitely puts a cramp in my style iykwim.  so all i can say is that i'll try and be better.  i've certainly been sewing quite a bit and reading about all the great sewing/costume making so now i feel ready to get back to it!

now that i'm done whining, anybody else started thinking about fall makings yet?

Moving... sort of

I'm in the painfully slow process of trying to learn to do some clever cyber renovations around here... which are hindered by a total lack of knowledge of HTML I might add.  Nevertheless there is one thing you should know.  I'll be changing the address of the blog to relovedrevolution.blogspot.com

If you'd like to continue following you may need to update your subscription thingy.  umm.  yeah.  Computers are not my strong suit.  There has been tons of sewing going on, though, so as soon as I figure out the techy part you can expect a veritable avalanche of new posts.

Sorry for the delay.  Not as sorry as I am for skipping computer class though =P

Blue roses, darling ranges

Continuing with the trend of ostentatious monikers for moderately mundane garments.  Now with a sprinkling of alliteration!

I think it's pretty obvious that this is yet another darling ranges dress.  Every time I make this pattern I tweak it a little bit.  Next time I'd like the skirt to be a bit fuller.  Or maybe a lot fuller!  Also, pocket fail!  They're oddly positioned for the shape.  If they were more slanted towards the floor they would work.  Duly noted.  

The fabric (oh!  The fabric!) was a find at the thrift.  For a cool dollar fifty I just couldn't pass up the pretty print... even though I could see it wasn't in great shape.  It turns out I totally underestimated how badly preserved it was.

In addition to the weird discolored stripe running along one edge there were several small holes... and one big one :P Based on the print, obvious poly content, and poor condition I can't help but wonder if this is real vintage fabric.  I think people have a tendency to call anything from the thrift vintage.. but I'm pretty sure this shit's actually old.  Kind of cool and kind of crappy all at the same time!

I originally thought I'd be lucky to eek out a blouse but through some creative pattern placement (no cutting on the fold happening here!) I managed to get all the pieces for this dress with just a few scraps to spare.  Seriously, there's barely enough for quilt scraps!

I think the fit is pretty good in the bodice.  I think I raised the neckline just a smidge, as I sometimes do when making this pattern.  Even so I pretty much always wear a camisole under it.  As opposed to, you know, just puttin' it all right out there.

The skirt is not such a great fit.  As I mentioned above, a fuller skirt would have been nice.  The skirt fits just fine in reality, but the pockets are not as useful as they would have been if the skirt was fuller.  Facepalm!

I've made this pattern so many times that there's really not much more to say about it.  Except that it's great!  I love it.  It's just perfect for climbing ladders...

Or dancing.  Yes this is how I dance and it's why my husband never takes me dancing =(

Or even doing Scarlett O'Hara impressions.  Bad Scarlett O'Hara impressions.

My life goal is to make a dress out of curtains so that I can actually say "I saw it in the window and just had to have it!"

Total cost: maybe $3

Notions: buttons and bias tape... and interfacing.  Seriously, interface the button placket, just do it!  You're welcome.

Happy: So very

Make again: I feel like after so many iterations it'd be crazy to keep going... or maybe it'd be crazy to stop?

WIP Wednesday

Next:

The same but different...

Coming soon...

Dino Daze

My little baby boy (because he'll really always be my baby) has started preschool.  It's actually preschool/summer camp; a short half-day program to test the unfamiliar waters.  He seems to like it so far and so do I, from what I've seen.  Bonus: they do themes for each quarter.  This quarters theme?

DINOSAURS!!!

I swear they couldn't have picked a better topic if they'd called and asked "So what does the boy really like?  What is one thing he is totally obsessed with and never tires of? If he were to donate the largest collection of something to the Smithsonian, what would that something be?"  That's right.  Dinosaurs.

I went to the local fabric store specifically for dinosaur fabric and was pretty disappointed with the limited options.  This desert camo-esque fossil fabric is the best I could come up with.  There was one other fabric I liked that had stripes of cartoon dinosaurs and now I'm wishing I'd grabbed some of it as we'll because, of course, he loves his Dino shorts!

I got a yard and a half to make sure I had enough to get good placement since this print is very large for such a small garment. It was waaaay more than enough.... Now what to do with the excess?  I'm thinking a pair of treasure pocket pants since obviously summer won't last long (today being a cold, effective reminder of this).

I managed to get a big focal dinosaur on each side: a triceratops on one side and T. rex on the other...  I believe.  I don't have them in front of me and I'm no paleontologist so take that for whatever it's worth.  Unfortunately that's about all the thought I gave to pattern placement.  The back looks a little odd with two Dino tails coming right out of the center back seam.

The front is significantly more unfortunate: there are heads coming out of the seam on both sides!  Awkward...  Almost as awkward as this picture :P

I used the kickin' back sweats pattern from Sewing for Boys and just shortened them to be shorts.  I wish I'd shortened them a bit more since they came out rather longish but hubby says it's fine so it shall stay as is.  Remember if you're making this pattern up in a woven fabric it's got to have plenty of ease.  When I made the Boy's knit shorts I pinched out something like four inches (or so!!) but for these I used the full width of the original pattern. I can't remember now if I'm using the 4/5 or the 6/7 but it's the same size I used last year.  

I sewed up the crotch seams first in the French fashion (are French seams really French at all?) and then flat felled the inseam.  This is pretty much my M.O when it comes to this kind of pattern.  For me it's just easier than sewing the legs first then sticking one inside the other.  I do wish these had pockets but I couldn't work out how to add pockets without messing up or covering up the pattern.  With the dinosaurs being centered on the sides I couldn't add side seam pockets or patch pockets and the Boy hasn't quite got the hang of back pockets yet.  Then again what does he need pockets for when he's got me?

Mission dinosaur shorts: accomplished!

Not too deep into the jungle

I've always felt like animal prints just aren't for me.  See?  This is where blogging leads.  Peer pressure guys. It's bad.  

I found this slinky, shiny, XXL leopard print top at the thrift and bought it in a moment of clothes-by-the-pound insanity.  I hemmed and hawed about what to do with it, but in the end I was so in love with this make by Lladybird that I decided to try something similar.  I didn't have the pattern, and even if I had I doubt I would've gone to the trouble of a full lining.  I just bound the seams with bias tape.  I thought I had black (turns out I do, it was hiding) so I used the darkest color I had which is sort of cobalt blue.  There's a facing for the rounded bottom piece and some self made black bias tape around the neckline.  The black is also some weird slippery poly bought ages ago at tr thrift. Needless to say, making bias tape out if it was a nightmare.  I also used it for the facing and the undercollar since fabric was in short supply.

I also did bound buttonholes.  Shoot me now.  Seriously.  This is some crazy, slippery, fraytastic poly and those buttonholes were nearly the death of me.  The thought process?  I'll do bound buttonholes for practice.  I'm sure that's the sort of thing I'll want to know how to do.  WTF?  That was not good reasoning.  On the bright side this was before I tackled welt pockets and they are a (comparative) piece of cake.  What's the moral here?  I'm not really sure.  Let's move on.

I originally intended to modify the Darling Ranges dress pattern (as if I haven't already done enough of that) but when I laid out my modified pieces it was pretty clear that they would not all fit on the available fabric.  I dug out my Simplicity 2174 Amazing Fit pattern (just the bodice pieces actually) and started tinkering.  I cut the back on the fold instead of in pieces (I'll talk about why that was a mistake in one moment) and modified the heck out of the front piece.  I changed the neckline from square to V, added enough extra for a placket, and cut two instead of one on the fold.  For the collar I tried to trace the collar of a blazer I have that I really like.

Let's just take a moment to talk about that collar.  These pictures do not do it justice.  It looks editorial here: Cheetah print jacket with ridiculously large, awkward collar.  In reality, it's awful.  It sticks up, gapes, I don't even know what it does but it's definitely not right.  I have an idea, though, to try handstitching it down.  Ripping stitches in this fabric is just not an option.  Life, it's far too short.

You can see here the weird way it moves.  You can also see the notch.  Do you see the notch?!  I was very excited about that.  The fact is that the collar should've been cut a little curvier round back.  It's too close to straight and that's why it doesn't lay right.  I'm pretty sure.  Next time.  There will always be next time (won't there?  I think so...  I love me a good blazer for work).

Onward.  The back.  Ugh.  The original pattern fit so well, so what happened here?  I seem to recall adding some ease while cutting since it's a jacket instead of a fitted dress.  I think one of two things is going on here.  I either added too much ease or should have cut two back pieces.  The original pattern has a curve along the center back which, I suppose, is preventing this trainwreck you see here.

I don't know, maybe it's not so bad.  After all I have to move my arms around so I suppose there should be some extra fabric there, yes?

The peplum is the part I think I like best.  It's subtle but gives just a little extra pizzazz (did I really just use that word?  I think it's past my bedtime).  I like the curved edge, I like the way it flares out from the waist just a tiny bit and skims over the midsection.  I am definitely brainstorming how I can use this again 

And there you have it.  A cheap knock off of an awesome jacket.  In the end I'm not all that unhappy with it.  It was a cheap way to try out this pattern idea and I will come back to it when the weather cools down a bit (too hot for layers right now).  I really do see lots of potential here.  Plus I have a (moderately) wearable cheetah print blazer for when the mood strikes, and occasionally it does.  Can you expect to see any more animal prints sneaking their way into my wardrobe?  It's probably too soon to say....

Brainzzzz and radishes.

I felt like there were at least enough pictures here to warrant a whole new post about pajamas, but this is the last one for a minute.  Promise!  The boy was in desperate need of some new summer pjs seeing as how his Super Mario set has seen better days and that's really all he has.  What can I say?  Summer is not a lengthy visitor in these parts.

I found a tee shirt at the goodwill outlet that was stained and had the neckband cut off.  It pretty well looked destined for the landfill but soooo soft so I snatched it up for a few cents.  

Can you see the crazy print?  It's some kind of steam punk hot air balloon drawing with a brain hot air balloon.  I know right?  (On a side note; hot air ballons = steampunk?  I still can't quite figure out the rules here.  End tangent.)  This pretty nearly became a tank top for moi but being such a good mommy I made the sacrifice and I think it was worth it.  

There was no pattern I just sort of eyeballed it.  The front neckline has a bit too much fabric but its not so bad I'm thinking about changing it.  I finished the neckline and armholes with strips of the same fabric and my lucky 85 percent rule.  I honestly didn't hem the shirt because I couldn't find my grey thread. I did buy a twin needle though so theoretically I could.  Would you like to know the fastest way to break a twin needle?  Let's just say: always remember to reset your machine to a straight stitch and leave it at that shall we?

The red shorts are made from an old tee of mine.  I never wore it because it was a bit on the short side.  The fabric is pretty thick so it's perfect for shorts.  The shirt had a scoop neck and a neckline placket so I was worried I wouldn't have quite enough.  Sometimes I'm amazed that the sewing gods don't just smite me where I stand, slapdash as I am sometimes.

I was kind of in a hurry (it wouldn't do to be late for the pajama party would it?) so I took the sweatpants pattern from Sewing for Boys and pinched out lots of room until they fit on the fabric I had.  Luckily they turned out just the right size. I kept the original hem so all I had to do was sew up the crotch and inseams then fold over for the elastic waistband et voila!

That means this whole outfit was thrown together in about an hour for almost no cost (I think the shirt was 25 cents give or take).  Quick and dirty and completely reloved <3 p="">

Best of all he actually likes his new pjs.  It's so nice to finish something for him that he actually wants to wear.  Zombies are a big thing with him right now so really anything with brainz are A-ok!

As for the radishes... Well, he had fun picking them...

Cleaning them...

Smelling them...

But he never did eat one.  Apparently he'll stick to the braaaiinnnzzzzz!